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  History (cont)    
     
St. Nathy's Cathedral Frenchpark House
The Old Military Barracks Cloonshanville Priory
The Convent Chapel and Grounds Fairymount
Dillon House Loughglynn
The Lung River Tonroe
Banada Monasteraden
Kelbanada Moygara
Bocagh Hill & Massrock Grave Slabs at Carrentemple
Lissian Kilmovee
Tibohine Urlaur Abbey & Pattern
Portahard  
 
  Frenchpark House:
The French family were originally Norman, who came to Ireland with Strongbow. A branch of the family settled in Galway and became wealthy salt merchants. The mid 17th. century was a time of great upheaval with war, famine and the "Curse of Cromwell." Many of the native land owners were forced to leave Ireland for the Continent. The Frenches were one of the families at this period and acquired a vast estate. They settled at Dun Gar (Frenchpark) in the 1650’s, where they built a large Jacobean style house with Dutch bricks imported via Galway. As their wealth grew, so did Frenchaprk House. Wings and a third storey were added in the 1700’s. In 1839, Arthur French of Frenchpark was created the first Baron de Freyne. Frenchpark House was demolished about thirty years ago.
 
   
  Cloonshanville Priory:
Cloonshanville Priory fits into the movement for reform which began in the Mendicant Monasteries in Connaught after the Black Death (1348-49). The mendicant friars helped the poor, the sick and the lepers and provided shelters for pilgrims and travellers. The Dominican Priory of the Holy Cross is said to have been founded by McDermot Roe in 1385. The ivy-covered bell-tower still stands and some ruined walls may be seen. A tall stone cross with stunted arms is located in a nearby field and may point to the presence of an earlier ecclesiastical foundation. An interesting feature is a Piscina in the church. The Piscina was a basis made from Stone and used for washing the sacred vessels. It was placed near the altar and a little drain from it led down to the foundations. Theobald Dillon got possession of Cloonshanville after the dissolution of the Monasteries. He rented it to John Davis, who succeeded him as collector of the Composition Rent in Connacht. The Dominican Community had to leave and it is thought some went to Rome – and others to Bayonne and Aquitance (France).
 
   
  Fairymount:
Neolithic Tomb:
The most lasting legacy of the Neolithic people are their tombs, frequently located on high ground. Fairymount Hill is the highest point in Co. Roscommon. A mound covered with earth on the summit is very possibly a passage grave.

Hill-Forts:
At 586 ft. Fairymount Hill commands a great view of the surrounding country and would have made a natural defence. Two large interlinked hill-forts enclose the top of the hill and possibly date from the Iron Age. Such sites were almost certainly tribal. The chief and his followers occupied the hill-fort as a palace in time of place. However, all the tribesmen and their cattle could be accommodated within its defences in time of danger. Roscommon Co. Council have built a water tower on part of it.

Cill i Hooley:
St. Lallocc is said to be associated with the coming of Christianity to Fairymount (Ard Senlis). It seems there was an early ecclesiastical foundation at Cill I Hooley. There are no ruins of the church, but is known as sacred ground and was used as a burial place for unbaptised infants until approx. fifty years ago.

Fairymount Church:
Michael Healy made five windows for Fairymount Church between 1907 and 1910. Healy was one of the most distinguished artists who worked with an Tur Gloine and most of his work involved complex aciding. One of Hubert McGoldrick’s best windows depicts St. Brigid and was made for Fairymount Church in 1922.
 
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Loughglynn:
Loughglynn House:
Theobald Dillon and his successors acquired an estate of almost 3,000 acres, mostly in Co. Mayo. Theobald, an adventurer, worked for the expansion of Elizabethan control in Connaught and gained immense personal benefits from it. Later generations of the family supported the Catholic cause. The second Viscount, Luke, was a member of the Confederation of Kilkenny. His brother, Louis, who was a Francisan Friar, became Bishop of Achonry (1641 – 1645). Another brother, James, went to France, where he founded the Dillon Regiment. Their famous charge during the battle of Rauville won the battle for France. His wife, Mary Talbot, was killed by a shell during the siege of Limerick.

The Dillons became absentee landlords in the mid eighteenth century, when the Eleventh Viscount married an English heiress. A number of land agents administered the estate. The most notable were Jerrard Strickland and his son Charles. Loughglynn House was built by Richard, 9th. Viscount Dillon, between 1713 and 1737. It belongs therefore to the early phase of mansion building that followed the Williamite Wars. It is Palladian in style and originally had a Mansard roof.

The top storey was removed following a fire in 1896. A demesne was planted in 1801. This consisted of 80 acres of woodland. Three avenues led to the house. The principal one stretched for more than mile to Moyne Crossroads. At the end of the last century, the house was sold and acquired shortly afterwards by the Franciscan Missionaries of Mary, who were noted for their "Ateliers" (industrial schools) in France. From 1903, they provided employment and training for a large number of local people in their workshops and dairy. Their cheese was famous.

Loughglynn Lake:
Loughglynn lake was constructed in the early 19th. century by Jerrard Strickland, land agent to Viscount Dillon. It is of ornithological interest and is especially important to wildfowl in dry periods in winter.

Loughglynn Castle:
The remains of a Normal Castle, said to have belonged to the Fitzgeralds can be seen on the south side of the lake. One tower still stands. This was later the location of the farmyard belonging to Loughglynn House.

Site of Loughglynn Ambush:
On the 19th. April, 1921 four I.R.A. men were staying in a house near Loughglynn wood. When they learned that the Black and Tans were combing the wood, they attempted to escape. Two were wounded. Following a drumhead court martial the other, Bergin and McDermott were shot on the spot.

Duffy Memorial Loughglynn:
Edward Duffy, chief organiser of the Fenian Movement in Connaught (1862 – 1867), had close associations with this area. His family home was in Ballaghaderreen. However, two of his sisters taught in a cottage near where the monument now stands. Duffy died in Millbank Prison on 17th. of January, 1868. On hearing of his death, O’Donovan Rose wrote a poem which includes the lines:-

"In the dead house you are lying Ned and I’d wake you if I could.
But they’ll ‘wake’ you in Loughglynn Ned, In the cottage by the wood."

 
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  Tonroe:
The Tonroe Mill and Forge:
An Oats and Corn mill of the 19th. century. Oats, wheat and barley were transported by farmers to be milled into wholemeal flour and animal feeds, while the corn was being milled, the farmer attended to other tasks such as "shoeing" the horse or repairing farm implements. The mill was operational until the 1950’s.
 
   
  Monasteraden:
Monasteraden Graveyard and Souterrains: Monasteraden Graveyard is unique in that it is the only round graveyard in Ireland. St. Aidan founded his monastery there.

St. Aidan’s Church :
This church replaced the former smaller church at Edmondstown crossroads and was built around 1873. In the eastern corner of the churchyard the famous burial vault of the McDemott family can be seen. Interred here are the remains of:

(a) The Right Hon. Hugh, The MacDermott Prince of Coolavin, who was Privy Councillor and Attorney General for Ireland.
(b) Charles Edward: The MacDermott.
(c) Charles John: The Mac Demott.
(d) Dermot Francis: The Mac Dermott.
(e) Hugh Percy Victor (5th son of Right Hon. Hugh MacDermott).

It is well to note that the MacDermotts built the church in Monasteraden. Also in the grounds of this quaint little churchyard O’Sullivan Beara stopped on his march from Kerry to the land of O’Rourke of Breffini. He passed through Ballaghaderreen and through Monasteraden (Donncha O’Dulaing planted an oak tree here as he retraced O’Sullivan Beara’s March).

Flannery and Corcoran Monument – Townabrack Road:
On the roadside between Monasteraden Church and Moygara Castle stands a monument erected to the memory of Joseph Corcoran and Brian Flannery who lost their lives at this very spot, on the 2nd. April, 1881. The conflict occurred between two countrymen named Joseph Corcoran and Brian Flannery and Sergeant Armstrong. This was a period of mass eviction of people from their homes under foreign rule. Both these families were about to become dispossessed like several others and on this occasion both Corcoran and Flannery were shot dead by the police party on the edge of the roadway, where to cairns, 6 or 7 feet high and 8 feet apart now mark the fatal spot. Both Flannery and Corcoran are buried in the old Cemetery in Kilcolman.

Megalithic Tomb at Shroof, Monasteraden:
This megalithic tomb situated at the top of Townabrack Hill dates to about 5000 B.C. It was excavated by Dr. Raftery in the early 1950’s. With over 300 Crannoga found at Lough Gara archaeologists believe this to be a megalithic graveyard of some kind or other.
 
     
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  Moygara:
Moygara Castle and Souterrain:
After the Anglo-Norman invasion the O’Gara’s were pushed out of their territory (i.e. centre of territory was the country north of Castlemore and Ballaghaderreen) into Coolavin. In 1206, the O’Gara buily Moygara Castle on the side of Mullaghtee. It was a castellated building 185 feet square, with battlemented towers, four of which can still be traced. The dwelling and entrance were on the left side. In 1220-1221 the O’Gara territory, with the exception of Coolavin and Killaraght was granted by De Lacy to the De Angulos, Barons of Navan. This take-over was strongly contested.

The castle was attacked and captured in 1256 by O’Cuisin (one of Fitzgerald’s Anglo Norman leaders from Sligo town). In 1259, it was recaptured by the O’Gara’s aided by the O’Connor’s and was rebuilt. It remained in the possession of the O’Gara’s until 1581 when it was burnt by Malby of Connacht. It is widely believed that the gates of the castle were thrown into Lough Gara. The remains of the other two castles are still to be seen, i.e. the Castle at Cupanagh and Derrbybeg Castle. Fergal O’Gara commissioned the arrivals of the Fair Masters. The souterrain out of Moygara Castle was used as an escape route.

Lough Gara Crannoga:
Crannoga or lake dwellings were popular constructions during both the Stone Age and the Bronze Age. Over 300 Crannoga were discovered at Lough Gara and these particular ones date from 500 B.C. to 1000 B.C. Objects including bone pens, combs, glass beads, bronze ornaments and numerous wooden bowls were found. Stone causeways formed a path from the shore to the crannog. Artefacts of a much larger kind than those already mentioned were found also – polished stone axes, pottery ornaments, spindles, whorb, rotary querns and iron objects. These Crannoga presented evidence of metal working and it can therefore be said that the inhabitants of these crannoga were engaged in industrial activity.

Templeronan Cemetery:
Situated on the shores of Lough Gara, this cemetery is built on the site of a former monastic settlement. The graves of some of the monks are to be seen in this cemetery. The grave of Thomas McDonagh is also to be seen here. McDonagh was fatally injured by the Black and tans during the fight for freedom.

Giants Grave and Cul Cnoc (Drimacoo):
Drimacoo, an area overflowing in Folklore and Traditions contains 4 prominent Raths and the Giants Graves. As late as 70 years ago, groups of fiddlers appeared to anybody crossing the hill Cul Cnoc, and to this present day people wont cross the hill after dark.
 
   
  Grave Slabs at Carrentemple:
Fourteen sandstone early Christian grave slabs were found mainly to the south and east of the church within the old graveyard. Two of the slabs have art that is derived from pagan Celtic Iron Age Art. One other slab has a design similar to the design in the Book of Durrow, datable to 650 A.D. It is therefore suggested that many of these slabs date to the 7th or 8th century.
 
   
  Kilmovee:
"Caiseals":
There are 7 Celtic Age stone "Caiseals" in Kilmovee, which includes the largest "Caiseal" in Connaught, located at the rear of the present day Kilmovee football pitch.

Ogham Stone: An Ogham Stone, found in a wall in Kilmovee is now mounted beside "The Three Wells." "The Three Wells" are reputed to have sprung up when St. Mobhi struck the ground with his staff when he had no water to baptise the local people.

Brooklawn House: The first residence of the Bishop of Achonry in the Ballaghaderreen area.

The Glebe: The residence of the Protestant Rector for Ballaghaderreen. When the French army was marching east from Killala to Longford, the battalion came through Kilmovee to cross the River Lung. Local farmers joined the batallion to fight off the enemy. When the batallion was defeated, the local farmers’ lands were confiscated and given to the Protestant Church.
 
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  Urlaur Abbey and Pattern:
The Dominican Friary (Abbey) at Urlaur was founded in 1434. A papal bill dated 18th. March, 1434 issued by Pope Eugene IV granted Fr. William Nangle and Fr. Thomas O’Grogan permission to remain in Urlaur and erect a regular monastery. Edmond Costello and his wife, Fineola Cusa, daughter of O’Connor Dun were generous benefactors and they financed the building of the Abbey. It became the burial place of the Costellos, their sephulcre was located near the altar.

The friary is situated on the Northern shore of Urlaur lake about 9 miles from Castlemore. Perhaps its remote and beautiful location was what attracted the friars here and there are frequent reference to novices coming here from all over Connacht. The Dominicans were mendicant friars. This friary fits into a reform movement that was especially strong in the West of Ireland in the 15th. Century. The reformers were called observants and they strove to follow the rule of their order strictly. The austere vision that inspired them seems to be reflected in the strong pure lines of the architecture. The remains of the church and of the domestic buildings are very fine.

The church is rectangular in shape. There are openings (doorways) in the west and south walls. Eighteenth century prints show a beautiful east window and three gothic arches separating the Nave from a recessed area. An interesting feature is the aperture, where lepers could hear Mass. On the south are the other buildings of the friary. Up the steps, on the second floor, was the dormitory where the friars slept. Below, the refectory, kitchens and other conventional buildings, the end part was the boathouse for a quick escape. aur is still held each year on the 4th. August to remember the feast of St. Dominic, testifies to the enduring mark the Friars made. The chief duty of the Dominicans was to preach. They became closely integrated with local communities and the people warmed to them. They also helped the sick and lepers and provided shelter for pilgrims and travellers though living on charity themselves. Each Dominican house had its own territory in which it had the right to beg. Its seclusion helped Urlaur to weather the dark storms of oppression.

Most monasteries in the West escaped suppression until the reign of James 1. The long delayed blow fell on Urlaur in 1608. An inquisition was held in that year and another in 1610. The friary was declared suppressed and its lands given to an adventurer, Sir Edward Fisher. Later it passed into the hands of Sir Theobald Dillon. But the friars went on living quietly at Urlaur. Things got worse with the coming of Cromwell. Fr. Dominic Dillon and Fr. Richard Overton of Urlaur were put to death at Drogheda. A Fr. Mac Costello was also killed by the Cromwellians and Fr. Gerard Dillon died in prison. Yet in the midst of turmoil and terror, on August 16th. 1654, eleven Dominicans met at Urlaur to regulate the affairs of the Order. In 1698 the friars had to flee the Friary again because of the Penal Laws. Despite the threat of transportation and possibly death, five friars remained in the area including Fr. Pierce Costello and Fr. Redmond Costello. By the late 18th. century the Friary was in ruins and the community was dwindling. The last friar was Fr. Patrick Sharley who died in 1843.

Acknowledgements to Mr. Paddy McGarry, Bernie Jordan, Michael Mulligan and Ann O’Brien.
 
     
     
     
     
 
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